With nine outlets across Melbourne it’s clear Dainty has struck a chord with those that love it hot. Be that hot pot or Sichuan spicy hot, yet for some reason the place doesn’t really resonate with me as a fine dining restaurant.

The outlet in South Yarra is set across two expansive levels and seems impossibly big, yet is remarkably busy. The dining rooms are quite basic featuring nothing more than wooden chairs and tables as well as bench seating that runs the length of the wall. There are few nice touches like the Mural at one end of the upstairs dining room but hardly anything that suggests this is a premium dining destination.

Equally expansive and as it turns out - expensive is the menu which covers a wide range of Chinese classics with a clear focus on the use of Sichuan Peppers. Typical mains come in at between $30 through $40 which seems somewhat unjustified given the rushed and impersonal service but hey the place is extremely busy, so they must be doing something right.

Maybe it’s the food.

The portions are admittedly quite large - enough for two unless you’re super hungry. In any event, a smaller portion and reduced price point would be welcome for those going solo.

In the end, I opted for the green beans and their signature Sichuan Chicken and of course both were popping with flavor and crazy, spicy hot - they warned me! And they were right and I quite liked it.

Ultimately, what you get here are some pretty authentic tastes in a fairly average surrounds but nothing that blew my socks off or that you couldn’t get in any Chinatown in a big city for probably around half the price.

Bold flavors for sure but not fine dining.