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Humble and Awesome - Cafe Isan

 

A few months back we posed the question is Bianca Dubai's best Italian? Well now we have to ask a similar question, is Cafe Isan the city's best Thai?

Hidden away in JLT this tiny and and humble spot is as authentically Thai as anything flavor wise we've encountered in Thailand. Isan is the name given to a regional area of the country which has its own distinct style of cooking which is reflected beautifully at this little venue.

With a capacity of around 12 people, the interiors are dark and feature polished concrete floors with two hollow brick vertical sections that support an array of hanging plants and a small four seat 'bar' overlooking the cooking area. There are also a few touches of reclaimed wood paneling and colorful floor tiles throughout to complete the look. A couple of couches sit in contrast to the classic cheap chairs and tables that you would expect in a road side spot in Asia. It's simple, easy and without any hint of pretension, which is a clear sign that the food is the focus here. Service is friendly and straightforward.

The menu is presented in a unique way - which is a little book that runs through the story of the outlet, the regional food and of course the offerings.

In our experience it is pretty hard to find an excellent Pad Thai in Dubai, with the front runner being Busabba Eatthai (update - it’s closed down!), well the search is over.

The Pad Thai Goong with Shrimp (49 AED) at Cafe Isan was excellent in portion and flavor.
It's presented with a blue box of add-ons like salt, chili and peanuts and it's everything you want in a Pad Thai - perfectly cooked shrimp, the crunch of bean sprouts, citrus from the lime, some heat and noodles that are not mushy. It was outstanding.

While the Som Tum Thai (29 AED) - an Isan specialty, is a beautiful papaya and carrot salad that was perfectly balanced with just the right amount of fish sauce, sweetness and crunch, it was punchy, zesty and had just enough heat to say hello. Again another excellent dish.

Yet another star addition to this meal was the Panang Gad with Chicken (42 AED) which is their version of the classic Panang Curry with Rice. While quite small, the depth of flavor was excellent, the rich gravy was beautifully composed and the chicken cooked perfectly which is often not the case with various renditions of this classic Thai dish.

This is not a glamorous restaurant that smacks of style, however it is obvious that there is a level of passion and love that goes into the dishes at this home-style eatery that shines through in every bite.

Cafe Isan promises vintage and classic flavors from north eastern Thailand and on this count they absolutely deliver without breaking the bank.


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