Of Creature Comforts and Laksa
They say that some things aren't meant to change and in a world of seemingly constant change, it's nice to sometimes revert back to what you know. I tend to think that creature comforts are important - they make us feel at home and well comfortable. And for me nothing could be more comforting than tucking into my favorite dish in my old home town.
Asian Gourmet in the Adelaide Central Markets is somewhat of an institution - mostly for the food but also for the stern if not slightly eccentric owner Doreen Lo who strikes the same pose and classic disinterested face to every passer by - be they first timers or veterans (like me) of this tiny Malaysian inspired street food spot.
I've been coming here since the days of Double Dragon and it's the same deal every time.
Mrs Lo runs a tight ship and is somehow reminiscent of the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld, you can think of her as being a "Laksa Nazi".
So when you visit, put it this way - you're not going to be going there for the service. So when you get in there - don't mess around, cut to the point and make your selection and cough up the dough. Don't try to chit chat and definitely do not deviate from the menu as it reads. Requests for embellishments or alterations will be shut down instantly. This could see you running the risk of not being served. It's been this way since 1985, so what are you going do?
On the positive side everyone is treated equally, it doesn't matter who you are - a top flight lawyer from the law courts next door or a banker from up the street - Doreen will set you straight real quick.
With this kind of indifferent attitude towards service in the modern era, the food has to be bang on right? Well it is and this is due to the fact that incredibly the same chef has been at the helm the whole time and thankfully he has his laksa game on lock.
The Singapore Laksa
Their signature dish is Laksa, it comes in two styles - Singapore Laksa which is a combination or Seafood Laksa, which as you guessed is a seafood only version containing shrimp, squid and two types of noodle. A little known fact (except perhaps for regulars) is that Friday's sees them offer a special Laksa - The Sarawak which is the much revered version of the humble laksa that was kind of made famous by Anonthy Bourdain - who claimed it is the breakfast of the Gods. Essentially, this version is less creamy and more sour due to the additional use of tamarind and lemongrass. In any event it is amazing and a must try on Friday but not especially for breakfast...
The Seafood Laksa
There are a bunch of other things on the menu but with laksa this good I don't really care and to be honest don't even look with the exception of the Char Kway Teow - which is sensational and done to perfection with just the right amount of char.
It's amazing how far I will go to get a good laksa and having been on the endless hunt for the world's best laksa this old favorite really is something. Its comfort food at it's best, just like putting on an old pair of slippers - it fits perfectly and is instantly familiar but it's not the nostalgia - it's the flavor and the heat.
Asian Gourmet dishes up a laksa that is a beautifully balanced mix of balachan, chili and coconut cream that after one mouthful becomes moreish and addictive. I could eat two bowls in a sitting and have been known to go straight to the markets from the airport, just for this dish - it's that's good.
It is where my love of laksa originated and is always a perfect way to say I'm home, even if that's only for 24 hours.
