Modern Cambodian at Amok
There's a lot Fusion Asian Cuisine these days and arguably fusion can sometimes mean confusion but there's nothing to be confused about here at this humble little eatery that is giving the likes of Long Grain and Chin Chin a run for their money.
Amok is the brainchild of chef and proprietor Woody Chet, who after stints at other high profile restaurants around Melbourne decided to go out on his own with this Cambodian inspired Chapel Street venue in 2015.
The interiors of this long and slender space are very basic and a punctuated by the use of wood and a few rustic touches to give a warm and intimate feeling.
The name AMOK is based on a traditional Cambodian dish with curried fish coated in a thick coconut milk, which in this instance is reinterpreted using Tasmanian salmon. (One for next time).
Having stumbled into this place randomly, it was decided that the best approach was to just order a selection of menu items that captured a range of proteins and accompaniments. While the service was very good, it would have helped if the concept and inspiration was perhaps explained a little better - which is actually why the Amok dish was missed.
Regardless, what landed on the table was excellent.
Take for example the sensational Crispy King Prawn Brioche Roll with Chocolate Bacon, Gherkin and Smoked Paprika Mayo (29 AED). This was a very interesting way to kick things off and provided some deep, complex flavors to showcase the Chef's passion for modern Cambodian cuisine. The addition of the Chocolate Bacon was transformational by taking what is ostensibly a taste of the ocean and turning it into something very earthy. Clever.
Next up and in complete contrast was the sweet, sour and crispy Watermelon Salad with Lotus Root Chips, Pickled Ginger and Cambodian Dried Anchovy (29 AED), which acted as refreshing palate cleanser and packed a lot of flavor with some lovely textures to create additional interest.
While these starters were fantastic, the 12 Hour, Twice Cooked Beef Short Rib with Caramelized Coconut and Grilled Pickled Pineapple (90 AED) was a thing of beauty and completely stole the show. What you get here is two impeccably crafted ribs that fall of the bone and feature a slight crispy bite on the exterior and then melt in mouth, deep flavored meat that is cut beautifully by the compressed pineapple. The crispy coconut with a hint of chili in the tangy sauce provides a nice sense of balance with this outstanding dish.
The side of Eggplant Chips with Grilled Sweetcorn quickly receded to the background but was still enjoyable with its light and fluffy tempura like qualities.
In all, Amok is a humble and completely unassuming locale that is punching above its weight.
Chef Chet's deft ability to fuse quality Australian produce with his native Cambodian style provides a menu packed full of highlights and flavors that is a must try for anyone that appreciates Asian Cuisine and offers Chapel Street a uniquely different dining destination.
