A Sophisticated Evening at the Bostonian
I’ve been to Hong Kong on a quite few occasions and on each of those, the culinary emphasis has been flavor chasing classic street food all over the city. Of course there seems to be no shortage of options to explore in that culinary realm and being honest for a moment - I love Hawker food to death but even the most ardent aficionado can sometimes get street-fooded out. It’s at that point that taste buds seek refuge in something entirely different.
Enter the wonderfully sophisticated Bostonian.
This rather self-assured seafood and steak house at the Langham Hotel is the polar opposite of the hustle and bustle of its surrounds in Kowloon and was everything I needed it to be.
A long-time fixture of the local dining scene, the first impressions of the beautifully crafted, dark and moody interiors speak to a by gone era. However a closer look reveals a series of contemporary paintings and photographs that cleverly contrast and offer a subtle reminder of the less bourgeoisie days of the city.
It’s an impressive setting that sets a refined tone in just the right way.
Our meal begins with an introduction to the menu over a glass of their house reserve champagne, light and crisp the Lanson is quite a drop. This was swiftly followed by an offering of their signature house made sourdough which was accompanied by a light and fruity Italian olive oil and hit spot nicely.
With expectations high and a perfect start to the meal underway, we delved into the oysters and they didn’t disappoint.
The Bostonian’s elegantly presented tasting platter offers a selection of oysters which are sourced not from one, two but three regions.
Beginning with the French oysters which were light and subtle showcasing the natural mineral, sea side flavors of the mollusc, we moved onto the Irish oysters which seemed much bolder in flavor with a stronger sea side aroma, while the American variety was very similar, again with a much bolder flavor profile when compared to their French cousins. In all, the oysters were plump, juicy and perfectly shucked - which truth be told, hasn’t always been the case on recent outings back in Dubai.
Switching things up and in keeping with the contrasting mood of the evening, we move from the sea and back to the land by trying the Roasted Bone Marrow which is served on a bed of sea salt with a nice little red onion confit and potato mash. This is then topped with a lovely panko herb garnish and as one would expect, this umptuous dish was very earthy and flavorful with a nice contrast going on between the marrow and the more crunchy elements in the zesty garnish. As if we hadn’t had enough bread already, the dish is served with a thick cut sourdough garlic bread with the idea being to smother it with the marrow almost like a Pâté.
Moving on from the wonderful starters, we turned our attention back to the ocean and on to their signature Boston Lobster which is superbly presented on hot ocean rocks and undergoes a series of cooking processes to make sure that the lobster meat is cooked to perfection. This show stopping dish also features a divine lemon butter sauce that simply put - is to die for.
If there’s a singular dish that sums up this establishment then this delectable crustacean is it. Cooked to perfection, the flesh was silky and sublime with the requisite crunch and was in a word - outstanding.
Complimenting the well crafted food, it was also becoming quite clear that the service at the Bostonian is first class.
Our guy Andrew was not only knowledgeable and friendly but was also able to crack a joke and pace the meal perfectly. It’s these small nuances in etiquette and the ability to guide the meal that makes all the difference between good and truly memorable and at this point we were heading in the right direction.
After some chit chat and a refill, we eagerly awaited the arrival of our steak. So if the amazing lobster wasn’t enough to gain your attention then there’s no doubt that the seriously impressive aged Irish beef tomahawk will. Our beautifully prepared 28-day dry-aged steak was simply a cut (you know that pun was intended right?) above those experienced in Dubai - with the exception perhaps of Beefbar and just like the lobster, was perfectly executed.
With Andrew doing the honors and expertly carving the beast table side, there was nothing left to do but enjoy the medium rare slab that was utterly delicious. Served with a little grilled asparagus and a heady pot of peppercorn jus, it was everything you want in a steak, tender, juicy, flavorful.
In summing the food up, throughout the evening it was clear that a very sincere effort had gone into crafting each dish that landed on the table resulting in a meal that not only looked good but was a delight to consume. All of the temps were on point, the fine details sorted and clearly on display. It really was a supreme meal of fine fare.
The recently revised menu actually covers a lot more that what we could have possibly tried, including their famous Lobster Bisque, a whole host of imported prime beef cuts and of course the delectable Seafood Tower, which as you can imagine is perfect for sharing.
And now for something sweet.
After some more friendly banter our host took it upon himself to whip up some handcrafted cocktails that he thought would go well with their Alaskan Bomba desert. As it sat there in its Grand Marnier flaming glory, it was revealed that the passion fruit and Italian meringue outer shell is hiding a lovely little house made mango ice cream core, hence the choice of cocktails.
It was a deft touch that ensured that this was a meal for the ages.
So plaudits aside, who is the Bostonian best for?
With faultless preparation, impeccable service and big, fun flavors this destination restaurant is about grandstand dining not calorie counting. It’s bold and brash and the kind of place that would be at the top of your list if you’re looking to impress a client to seal a deal or reward a team for a job well done.
Aside from the business crowd - with their lunch being somewhat of an institution in Hong Kong, the Bostonian is also an ideal place to host discerning out-of-towners looking for a high end dining experience and perhaps a moments respite from all the typical local flavors.
Whatever your motivation, if you’re into surf and turf then this is one up market locale you’ll want to visit.
