Talking Fork

Any foodie worth a pinch of salt knows who Chef Morimoto is, so I will spare you a long and elaborate introduction about the world famous Iron Chef - who since those heady days of kitchen stadium has gone on to open a string of US based restaurants.

In Australia, the original Iron Chef was must see television for me back in the day on SBS. I was always captivated by Chef Morimoto‘ s creativity and unique approach to ingredients so you can imagine that I was quietly pumped to be finally indulging in the Morimoto Brunch.

Taking inspiration from Japanese cooking techniques and blending them with Western ingredients to create an East meets West sense of fusion, Morimoto Dubai - the first Middle East restaurant to brandish the legendary Morimoto name promises to be something different.

Offering a contemporary Japanese menu in equally contemporary stylings at the highly rated Renaissance Hotel in Business Bay, the restaurant is immaculately presented across two floors. It’s a beautiful but voluminous space that has been nicely crafted by WA International and features a range of different areas with perhaps the most savored being the outdoor Zodiac Terrace with its superb views of the Burj.

There are a series of other areas that include tepanyakki and sushi counters along with private VIP dining rooms, which are skillfully arranged through the use of wooden screens. There are some thoughtful flourishes throughout the restaurant with the heavy of use of wood artfully creating a sense of tension and contrast across the dimly lit space. There are some lovely vertical gestures with the centerpiece being a two story high tree in a glass cabinet which is complimented by a sprinking of light fixtures representing Japanese fireworks.

The interior design delivers an elegant and stylish approach that is an exercise in the subtle art of restraint, providing the perfect platform for the food to be the focal point of Morimoto.

The brunch takes place in the lower floor and having got there slightly early it was really interesting to see the team putting the final touches on everything before gathering together and going through a boisterous team chant as if they were going into battle. I could be mistaken but I thought I spotted Chairman Kaga in there yelling out "Allez Cuisine!" yellow pepper in hand.......

Kicking things off, guests are welcomed out to the terrace where you can take in the views and some chit chat over a beverage at your leisure. From there its only a matter of time before you find yourself gravitating towards the extensive sushi and sashimi counter which also has a lovely array of cold apps, like the sensational Tuna Poke or the stunningly good Soda Noodle. The cold soba noodle was a personal favorite and features an onsen egg in a miso broth with a little nori and tenkatsu which delivers the perfect combination of crunch and soup. It’s smokey and delicious.

The sushi is beautifully arranged in a series of large blue ceramic bowls with excellent attention to detail. All the classics are there but interpreted in slightly different ways. The impeccable presentation of everything made it feel like a shame to eat it but of course you gotta do what you gotta do. After trying just about everything - and all of it excellent, I thought the Unagi Sushi Nigiri was a clear stand out. The eel had some really deep, barbequey flavors going on. I also loved the Tomago Nigiri, which is actually pretty hard to find in Dubai. Aside from these, the oysters while not big were super duper fresh and I would actually go so far as to say that they were some of the best I’ve ever had in the city.

Moving on to the hot aps and the Chicken Karaage, which is basically Japanese fried chicken was excellent. These bite-size pieces of chicken are marinated in sake, soy sauce and ginger and then dusted with potato starch before getting a hot bath in the deep fryer. While this was good, the Cod Tacos and Morimoto’s famous Mini Tuna Pizzas were a sensation. If this wasn’t enough there’s still a Miso and Ramen station to tackle and that’s before the selection of mains become a part of the picture.

In the background there’s a great soundtrack featuring funk and soul and as an amazing waft of miso fills the air the party vibe amps up as the volume rises just a notch. Throughout the service the staff are clearly getting into it and go out of their way to make sure everyone is happy as people start dancing out on the terrace taking full advantage of their drinks package. For me, sushi and beer has been a winning combo for like forever and when you throw in some quality sake - you’ve got the perfect recipe for an all-star afternoon at the Renaissance.

While it would be easy to gorge yourself endlessly on sushi, trust me these mains are worth saving room for. Of the mains, the Black Miso Cod was exceptional. We all know that Zuma’s version is exceedingly good, well this is right up there. It’s a pleasure to eat as the dark and sticky miso glaze crust gives way to the beautiful light and delicate flesh of the fish. Not to be outdone, the medium rare Wagyu Flank Steak cuts like a knife through butter. It’s topped with a garlic miso chimicurri and a wonderful pickle which provides an amazing contrast between the steak and the zest. The final of the trio was the perfectly cooked Angry Chicken which almost seemed to move towards Portuguese flavors. It was beautifully moist and flavorful with a hint of fire but by no means over powering.

For those that like it sweet then please do yourself a favor and hold out for the Chef’s Selection Dessert Platter. It’s beautifully presented and an epic way to round out the brunch. Aside from the fruit selection there’s the guava mochi with candy floss, orange and raspberry ice cream along with a cheesecake soufflé which is one of Morimoto’s signature desserts. It’s worth busting your belt for.

One of the endearing things about this outing was the service. The team know what they’re doing and they do it well. From engaging one on one conversations with the chefs, through to the attention to detail shown by the wait staff in ensuring their guests were getting the most out of the brunch, it was really great to see.

Bottom Line:

We all know that there’s a lot of brunches in Dubai and each has its’ own angle and price point. For those that are looking for an refined party atmosphere amongst stylish surrounds with simply superb food, you would be hard pressed to find a more compelling brunch than Morimoto.

Editor’s Note: This venue has now closed down :(